How Do You Troubleshoot a Dryer? | Dryer Repairs Adelaide

How Do You Troubleshoot a Dryer? (Step-By-Step Guide)

If your dryer won’t start, won’t heat, or takes forever to dry, don’t panic. Most issues come down to power, airflow, or a single worn part. This guide walks you through safe, systematic checks you can do at home—before calling a technician.

Safety first: Unplug the dryer (and turn off the gas supply for gas models) before removing panels or handling internal parts. Never bypass safety devices. If you smell gas, stop and call a licensed technician immediately.


Quick Fix Checklist

  • Power: Outlet works, plug is secure, breaker/RCD (safety switch) hasn’t tripped.

  • Settings: Correct cycle selected (not “Air Fluff/No Heat”).

  • Door: Firmly closed, latch clicks; child lock off.

  • Lint & Airflow: Lint filter spotless; vent hose unkinked; exterior vent flaps open freely.

  • Load size: Not overloaded, mixed fabrics separated.

  • Moisture sensors: Wipe them clean (usually metal strips inside the drum).


Tools You May Need

  • Vacuum with crevice tool

  • Soft brush & microfiber cloth

  • Phillips/flat screwdrivers

  • Socket set/nut driver

  • Multimeter (optional, for advanced checks)


Dryer Won’t Start

  1. Power & Controls

    • Confirm the outlet works (plug in a lamp).

    • Reset tripped breaker/RCD. Electric dryers often use two linked breakers; if one trips, the drum may turn without heat or not turn at all.

    • Disable Child Lock; make sure Start/Pause is held long enough (often 2–3 seconds).

  2. Door & Latch

    • Ensure the door fully closes and the latch clicks. A misaligned or broken latch/switch prevents start.

  3. Thermal Fuse (advanced)

    • A blown thermal fuse (a safety device) stops power to the motor or heat. It usually blows due to overheating/poor airflow. If blown, replace it and resolve airflow issues so it doesn’t blow again.


Dryer Not Heating (or Low Heat)

  1. Cycle & Settings

    • Avoid Air Fluff/No Heat for wet loads. Use a heat cycle and correct temperature.

  2. Airflow First

    • Clean the lint filter thoroughly.

    • Inspect vent hose for kinks/crushing; keep it as short and straight as possible.

    • Go outside: confirm strong, warm airflow and that the flap opens fully. Weak or cool airflow = a clogged vent.

  3. Electric Models: Heating Circuit (advanced)

    • Possible faults: heating element, high-limit thermostat, thermal cut-off, or cycling thermostat.

    • Visual check for broken coils on the element; test parts with a multimeter (continuity).

  4. Gas Models: Ignition (advanced)

    • Watch through the burner view port:

      • No glow → bad igniter or no power to gas assembly.

      • Glows but no flame → failed gas valve coils, flame sensor, or gas supply issue.


Takes Too Long to Dry

  1. Airflow, Airflow, Airflow (most common)

    • Deep-clean venting from dryer to exterior. Lint builds up in elbows and long runs.

    • If you use a lint-screen dryer sheet, wash the screen periodically with warm water and soap—fabric softener film can block airflow.

  2. Load & Settings

    • Don’t overfill. Separate heavy items (towels, blankets) from light fabrics.

    • Use Timed Dry to test: if timed heat works but Sensor Dry doesn’t, clean moisture sensors.

  3. Moisture Sensors

    • Wipe metal sensor strips (inside the drum near the lint screen) with vinegar or mild soap to remove residue.


Drum Won’t Spin

  1. Belt

    • If the motor hums but the drum doesn’t turn, the drive belt may be broken. Many dryers have a view slot or require front panel removal.

  2. Idler Pulley & Drum Rollers

    • Worn pulleys/rollers cause the drum to stall or screech. Spin them by hand (with power disconnected); they should turn freely and quietly.

  3. Motor

    • A seized or weak motor may buzz, trip the breaker, or run only when hand-started (don’t do this). Replacement is a pro-level job.


Loud Noises or Vibration

  • Thumping: Flat spots on drum rollers—common after long idle periods—or heavy items balled up.

  • Squealing/Screeching: Worn idler pulley or rollers.

  • Rattling: Loose coins/buttons in the drum baffles or blower wheel debris.

  • Booming/Grinding: Blower wheel cracked or rubbing housing.

  • Level the machine and tighten feet to reduce vibration.


Burning Smell

  • Immediate action: Stop the cycle. Unplug.

  • Check for lint build-up around the heater housing or inside the cabinet.

  • Inspect the belt; a slipping belt can smell like burnt rubber.

  • If smell persists or you see scorch marks, call a professional.


Stops Mid-Cycle

  • Overheating/Restricted Airflow: The high-limit thermostat may trip. Clean vents and let the unit cool.

  • Faulty Door Switch: Vibration can cause intermittent opens.

  • Control Board/Timer Issues: Less common; symptoms include erratic cycles or dead displays.


Electric vs Gas: What’s Different?

  • Electric dryers use a heating element and 240V supply; tripped half-breakers cause no heat.

  • Gas dryers use an igniter and gas valve coils; if the burner lights then quits repeatedly, suspect failing coils or poor airflow.

  • Both rely on clean airflow and accurate thermostats to maintain temperature.


Preventative Maintenance (Every 3–6 Months)

  • Empty & wash the lint screen.

  • Vacuum lint from the filter housing.

  • Pull the dryer out; clean the vent hose and wall duct.

  • Check the exterior vent for nests, flaps, or lint mats.

  • Wipe moisture sensors inside the drum.

  • Inspect the power cord and plug for heat damage.


When to Call a Pro (Us at Adelaide Appliance Gallery)

  • You smell gas or see scorch marks.

  • You’re uncomfortable testing live circuits or gas components.

  • Repeated thermal fuse failures (indicates deeper airflow or control issues).

  • Motor replacement, control board faults, or complex disassembly.


FAQs

Why does my dryer run but not heat?

Most often: restricted airflow (clogged vent/lint) or a heat component failure (electric element, gas coils/igniter). Start with vent cleaning, then test parts.

How often should I clean my dryer vent?

At least every 6–12 months, more often for long duct runs, multiple bends, or heavy use.

Is it safe to run the dryer with the vent disconnected?

Only briefly for testing airflow indoors (and only if lint and humidity won’t cause issues). Regular operation must vent outside.

Can a bad thermal fuse be reset?

No. Thermal fuses are one-time safety parts. Replace the fuse and fix the cause (usually overheating from poor airflow).

My dryer tumbles but clothes are still damp—why?

Likely poor airflow or residue on the moisture sensors causing the cycle to end early. Clean both the venting and sensor strips.

Final Tips

  • Always start with power, settings, and airflow—they solve most dryer problems fast.

  • Keep a maintenance calendar (lint/vent cleaning) to prevent issues and reduce energy use.

  • Contact us if you need a Dryer Repairs Adelaide service